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An introduction to the carriage-drives of north-west
Devon: With a study of the Hartland Abbey drive and its environs. -
Stephen Hobbs.
Abstract: Contents:
6, A Study of the Carriage-Drives of Hartland
Abbey and their environs Hartland Abbey is the centre of what was an extensive private agricultural estate from the time of the Dissolution. It is situated in a steep heavily wooded valley which runs east-west for some three miles culminating at the coast at Blackpool Mill (SS 225 256 GB Grid). The stream in the base of this valley is the confluence of the Abbey & Ford Rivers and all their minor tributaries. This system forms the main drainage system for a substantial central portion of the Hartland parish extending to Clovelly Dykes (SS 311 234 GB Grid), in the east, the Welsford basin in the south and the highland ridge that runs from Berry Farm east as far as Highdown in the north. Although the estate is much reduced in land extent today, the essential surrounding land of the primary building has been retained. In the immediate surrounds it is well maintained, as would be expected for a heritage attraction, but in the farther reaches of the valleys the landscape and its features have been allowed to deteriorate. The estate shows many of the classic examples of ground improvements by way of plantings, remodelling and presentation associated with many of the country house estates of the south west of England. It is within this setting that the carriage drives exist. 6.1 History of the Abbey The Abbat family bought the estate for £640 in 1541 from the Crown. As was the custom the commissioners ‘decommissioned’ any building that had a religious use in an attempt to preclude any quick reversal of policy . It is quite possible that the Abbey church, cloisters etc were reduced to an uninhabitable state and that the new Abbat family ‘lived’ in what was previously the Abbots accommodation which ran parallel to the river on the south side of the valley. No accounts of the Abbat family have survived from this transitional period, if they came with any substantial means or if they improved their position by judicious management of their new estate is indiscernible. However the family eventually failed in the male line and the estate, as happened with successive heirs of the Abbey, passed in the female line, first to the Luttrell family then again via the female line into the Orchard family . The Orchard family, originally from Orchard, Somerset , were well settled at Aldercombe, Kilkhampton in north Cornwall. Paul Orchard married the Hartland Abbey heiress Mary Luttrell and they had one child, a son, who died in his first year. On marriage the combined Cornish and Devon estates formed a substantial investment and income sufficient to support Orchard and his family. After the death of his first wife Paul Orchard remarried secondly Mary the daughter of Sir John Suffolk, then thirdly Rebecca the daughter of Sir John Smith, Alderman of London from who she co-inherited a substantial portfolio of land and property . Paul Orchard (1) was an M.P. for Camelford, 1711-13, and Bossiney, 1714, he died in 1740 at Wincanton of smallpox. From the third marriage a son and heir Paul (2) came to inherit all the estates of his parents; although he married Bettina the daughter of Sir Robert Lawley, Bart, of Staffordshire they had no children. Paul (2) and his wife used their income to further enhance and enjoy their estate at Hartland. The period between 1541 and 1710 is not well recorded in respect of the improvements of the buildings that formed the main house. On the marriage of Paul Orchard (1) and Mary (Luttrell) they commenced a programme of rebuilding. The west front was remodelled into a Queen Anne style and from illustrations of the time it would appear that any remaining monastery buildings were incorporated into the one structure essentially visible today . The estate remained substantial intact until the 20th Century the remodelling of the buildings and formation of extensive parkland from Orchard’s time included the construction of the access drives, the remains of which are still visible today. The focus of this research is not primarily the buildings themselves but the surrounding valley that formed the parklands, Map 1, p.31. 6.2 The environs of the Abbey The differentiation of land management between that operated by the monastic and that of the manorial landholders is evident in the development of the agricultural holdings held by each. The manorial were subject to greater agricultural use by way of division into multiple tenancies and eventually a more compact field system. The monastic presents a landscape that continued to have larger areas of open land, possibly for grazing of sheep, interspersed with small holdings. This landscape shows that the field systems were subject to later enclosures and present larger field sizes and an identifiable form of division. The initial grant of the lands for the monastic indicates that the Dinham family gave this considerable thought and although complying with the general principal of the gift to a religious foundation, may not have been as generous in terms of assets as has been previously thought. The formation of the new boundaries shows an awareness of the need to retain, for the manor, the means by which it could continue to operate and in particular this is represented by the use of the rivers. The river water was made available to drive the fulling and grain mills of the manor, the woodlands were retained as manorial except in close proximity to the monastic land and the coastal strip was also possibly retained as sporting ground in conjunction with the extensive Deer Park. Similarly the land holdings which were under monastic tenure may not have been of the best ground available within the manor. Map 3, p.33. 6.3 The Abbey grounds The formal gardens which surrounded the house, c.18th
Century, incorporated many pathways and features such as, flower or herb
beds, vegetable plots and ornamental fountains, the later made use of
the water management, possibly established by the monks, in providing
a head of water below the north orchard. The west garden was contained
within high walls while the east garden was laid out to take up the full
vista of the length of the valley. The grounds have been subject to a
number of garden designs, Figure 34, but are presently laid to lawns,
with the house vegetable garden later sited in a small south facing valley
off Shopshill road. This area also contains an extensive Victorian fernery
. The valley sides have numerous areas of planting and incorporate a variety
of water features and bog gardens all set within mature woodland. 6.4 Drive One This driveway was the route from the house into Stoke hamlet and the parish church, Figure 30. It passed over the river bridge and then up a gradual incline through the woods to the church stile at the north east corner of the churchyard. There is a suggestion that the driveway passed by the churchyard on its northern boundary and continued towards Hartland Quay although no evidence exists in the landscape to support this. Interestingly this drive runs for part of its distance almost parallel to an existing road which at some point was sunk into the substrata possibly to ease the climb up the valley, Figures 37- 38. The two drives possibly provide both a formal approach way and a more utilitarian service road between the Abbey and its Barton Farm (SS 234 245 GB Grid).
6.5 Drive Two Both sides of the valley are covered in mature woodlands before a change into coastal scrub and then gorse. This western drive also crossed the river on the last downstream bridge in the valley before the drive wound its way up the valley side onto an area called the Warren. Here there was a pleasure house in which the Abbey family and guests could be entertained whilst enjoying the panoramic views over the parish and coast as far as Lundy and Trevose Head, Cornwall. This Pleasure House also provided a secondary purpose as it represented a romantic folly within the vista seen from the Abbey in the valley below (HER 37676 NGR SS2264225082). 6.6 Drive Three 6.7 Drive four The date of this extension to the drive can be accurately dated at c.1760 in a property transaction between Paul Orchard (2) and the Governors of the Borough of Harton . This transaction details the leasing, for a period of 2000 years, to Orchard of three cottages, ancillary buildings and the bowling green. The records of the Borough detail that Orchard required this area for the construction of his ‘new’ drive. The bowling green was lost when the entrance to the new drive was created at what is now known as Springfield, but the buildings are still extant. The fuller drive represents an extension of almost a mile to the original short drive and ran through a secondary valley into the town of Harton. It is not known if this drive followed an existing track-way, although this is unlikely, it would involve the building of five bridges and the diversion of the main Hartland – Stoke road. 6.8 The existing landscape Water was a valuable resource as well as a permanent landscape marker used to delineate ownership within many Saxon charters . It would be reasonable to suggest that when the grant of lands to the religious household took place that the presence of the river in this valley formed a major consideration. The land owner deemed to retain sufficient water resource as could be possible whilst still providing the same for the religious house. Thus we can see that the river ran only through manorial controlled lands until it reached the Abbey boundary at Bow Bridge. This may also indicate that there was an early milling industry at or near the Hartland Mill (SS 248 247 GB Grid), site indicated on Map 4, p.34 thus the manorial lord was safeguarding the necessary water sources. Paul Orchard had at Hartland Mill the choice of two valleys in which to construct the new carriage-drive, an east valley which would have run under Harton Town on the northern valley and could have exited on the new turnpike road at or close to Mettaford. This valley had mature ancient woodlands on its northern valley side, one of the twin leetes serving Hartland Mill, the Abbey workshops and sawmills on the southern slopes and ran through an extensive area of the extant northern deer-park. For the majority of its length it had well drained valley pastures. However the decision was taken to use the south valley from Hartland Mill. This decision may indicate that the carriage-drive was
undertaken prior to any decision of the improvements brought by the new
Turnpike road as a drive constructed in the east valley could have exited
at Mettaford and avoided Harton completely. This interestingly would have
pre-empted the style of drive at Moreton, Bideford constructed by the
Buck family who were later to inherit Hartland Abbey.
6.9 The drive elements The ending of the bank and ditch system at Cutcliffe Lane is significant as this lane formed one of the few track-ways between the north and south manorial grounds negating the need to traverse Abbey property. It would also indicate that the deer-park and the bank and ditch system are contiguous in date, probably early medieval; the northern and southern deer-parks where, prior to the establishment of the Borough and its lands in 1298, undoubtedly one extensive area which could have extended further westwards towards the coast pre the monastic foundation. Within the woodlands on the eastern valley side are a small number of single banks, these would seem to align with divisions shown on the tithe map of 1846 and indicate that the land use had changed from woodland into agricultural and now back into woodland in part, see Map 4 and Appendix I. The valley floor from the Mill pasture meadow on the western end until Cutcliffe Lane has little in the way of indicators to any previous usage and may well have remained as wetland scrub. Inspection of the river banks in this section reveal no sign of drainage channels such as exist in the Mill Meadow and further east in the valley pasture lands of the deer-park, see Figures 45-48. The remaining valley passed through the deer-park and
as such would have been previously well managed to preserve the game and
the sport. It is however possible to delineate the extent of the woodland
by substantial banks as it abuts the meadows. Not all of these banks,
especially closer to Harton, retain their original proportions, as in
enabling the construction of the carriage drive a certain amount of terracing
took place. The question of the rising water on either side of the drive was solved in two distinct methods. On the eastern side the formation of either one long or two smaller wetland ponds and plantings was created with excess water draining off into the river at the mill weir pool. Although this area is now overgrown there is still some evidence of the ornamental plantings struggling to retain their hold. The area between the drive and the river on the west side would drain naturally into the river and may well have been substantially a grassed pasture. There is some evidence of ornamental shrubs such as rhododendron and laurels in this area along with flowering cherry. The more novel form of water management also involves
the valley side on the west of the river. Here again an area of wetland
seems to have remained largely untouched but as this area, within one
section, would be adjacent to the drive a method of water management was
needed. In fact it would appear that a substantial area of a side valley
was partially dammed allowing the formation of a shallow lake for water
fowl. A control sluice was placed in the tributary stream of this valley
and a leete dug almost parallel to the ancient bank and ditch system.
This leete also had a dual purpose as it collected water from numerous
springs in the valley side and delivered a steady supply of water which
was allowed to then fall back into the main river in the form of a gentle
woodland cascade or waterfall. To enable the drive to emerge at this point it would
require an extensive amount of terracing into what was a steep incline;
this involved a double terrace along the main section of the climb to
avoid the appearance of an overhanging cliff. This is the only major transformation
of the natural landscape in the valley as the remaining valley sides have
retained their contours although a certain amount of excavation and fill
may have occurred in the process of river containment. The existence of
a small number of quarry sites through the valley would at first appear
to be aesthetically displeasing, however although each was undoubtedly
cut to provide the materials for certain features such as the bridges
and retaining walls, some may have pre-existed the construction of the
drive. If this is the case then their presence could be indicators of
some lost features. This is particularly the case with the large quarry
face within the deer-park, the stone could have been used for hedging
purposes or could it have been the source of materials for the now lost
hunting lodge that allegedly existed within the deer-park? Similarly the
quarry adjacent to the mill weir may have been the source of stone for
the mill itself or also the original Poorhouse both of which are within
easy distance. Leaving the enclosed grounds of the original monastic
land the drive followed close under an ancient track and woods which form
part of the road towards Cheristow and ran parallel to the main river
and its meadow. As these were part of the Mill ground then stock had to
be confined to the pasture therefore a fence and a beech hedge was planted
possibly alongside trees that existed on the original bank and ditch system.
The drive turned to make its first river crossing at Glen Cottage, one-time
home of the Abbey head gardener, at this point a number of specimen tress
were planted primarily Scots pine, beech and horse chestnut and also allowed
tantalising glimpses of the Abbey in the distance. A side estate track
which ran east under Harton parted from the drive at this point but was
disguised by way of heavy planting of laurel and rhododendron. It is today
unclear either from any extant remains on the ground or from maps if the
drive returned onto the main Harton – Stoke road at this point or
if it passed under the road. However a new double span bridge was constructed
in the late 19th Century at this point by Messer’s Clements of Bideford.
It would be reasonable to suggest that in fact the line of the drive has
not altered from its original position and that the new bridge was a matter
of widening what may have been a rather narrow construction. The reasoning
for this assumption is that the position and style of specimen planting
in this area is such that they would have preceded the bridge works accepting
that the drive may have been lowered into the ground slightly in the process
(this area often floods which would have been unacceptable if it was part
of the original scheme). Emerging from the arch into the Mill Meadow the
drive is flanked by plantings of beech, oak and maple atop the cutting.
This area is adjacent to the noise and bustle of a busy mill the Abbey
workshops as well as the location of the parish Poorhouse. The later being
on a slightly elevated position overlooking the valley, one would suspect
that socially this would need to be concealed and indeed this is the case.
The landscape, although it contained a number of good standards of oak
and beech, has been under-planted by two banks of laurel and some rhododendrons
thus masking the view for users of the carriage drive. On the east valley side which is slightly less steep
than that previous passed, the wood had been selectively felled and some
specimen trees planted, again Scots pine and chestnut predominate. However
this selection and planting has been undertaken to allow the view to extend
across agricultural lands above the valley sides thus extending the view
and giving a sense of space and ownership albeit over land in the tenure
of others. This same method was repeated within areas of the old deer-park,
as the main pasture land on the valley top had long been leased out; by
selective felling and planting it was made to appear if this was still
part and parcel of the greater estate parklands. The final area of planting was the meadow and the incline into Harton. Specimen trees of oak, beech, black lime, horse and sweet chestnut under-planted with laurels line the drive at this point; the laurels once again serving the purpose of masking the view of the backs of town houses as they cling to the distant valley side. The drive now reached its culmination and entered the town between a pillared gateway and beside a lodge house onto an open area in the centre of the habitation area just off but directly in line with the main street. 7, Conclusion The decision to use the southern valley did present a challenging contract to the designer, not the best of grounds, an abundance of water and a narrow steep valley. That the final design fully achieved a workable solution should be fully accredited. In all the creation of a pleasant sheltered drive of approximately one and a half miles passing through a seasonally colourful setting which made use of the necessary industrial elements of water control and undoubtedly moulded the passing valley sides into a continuous changing scene. This was a superb landscaping achievement taking what may at first appear to be a canvas that had limited possibilities, through terrain that was unpromising. To create what was the essence of a countryman’s craft of management of the given landscape to produce a visually exciting project which allowed all the surrounding industrial and agricultural process to continue unheeded, while allowing the occupants of the carriages to travel in privacy and present to their guests what must have been a personal object of pride in overcoming these difficult features provided by nature. The inclusion of aspects of the sporting life of the estate by way of a shallow flooded valley for water fowl, the access to the gamekeepers facilities where the hunt kennels where situate, the stables being adjacent to the main Abbey property. It is known that the owners hunted over extensive tracts of the parish and the double use of the carriage-drive in this aspect no doubt was an advantage in perceived status to the owner. The secondary drive from the house to the coast is a fine example of ones enjoyment of the surroundings; few could argue that the use of the area known as The Warren for the construction of a Pleasure House gave one of the most spectacular vistas in north Devon. A feature repeated in the remodelling of Berry Farmhouse being undertaken at the same period of time for the family. Berry should be considered as an early example of building design orientated to enjoyment of the location as opposed to purely functional purposes. However changing financial fortunes of the 21st Century for the Buck/Stucley family have brought significant changes to the estate. The unforeseen effect of death duty resulted in the need to dispose of large areas of the greater estate, particularly in north Cornwall. The Changes in affordability of employment lead to a substantial reduction in the numbers of indoor and outdoor staff a consequence of which was the lessening in the ability to maintain the fuller estate. The main drive extension is gradually being reclaimed
by nature and soon little will be evident to display the pleasure that
was once derived from its use. It was a feature of the time, for which
there is little call today, the passing of the slower methods of transport
into the fast world of today gives no time for a leisurely drive at the
start of a long journey and thus the Hartland Abbey drive, alongside many
similar examples, are consigned into history to be replaced by what was
often the practical service drive to a property in a startling re-grading
of status.
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